Cat Door Can Put An End To Your Cat Servitude
Why does the cat who just came in now
want to go back out -- and vice versa? Is he just trying to drive you crazy?
Of course he is, but there's more to the story.
Cats like to keep an eye on their territory, and if
their territory includes a piece of the outdoors, they're going to want
to check on it frequently. And after they're out, who's looking after
their indoor turf? The cat needs in to check. And check. And check.
And besides, can you honestly say you have better things
to do than to serve your cat? Your cat doesn't think so.
If you disagree, then installing a cat door can end
your days as door opener. Cat doors aren't just for indoor-outdoor cats,
either: Putting one in as a gateway to a screened porch is a great way
to give your cat safe access to the smells and sounds of the great (and
dangerous) outdoors.
The basic cat door has a flexible plastic flap that
opens as your cat pushes on it and seals shut again with gravity -- and
sometimes magnets -- to keep the heat, cold and wind out after he's passed
through. Although these flaps are fine for warmer climes, they may be
a little drafty in areas with more severe winters. More expensive models
are available that do a better job at keeping the weather out, so look
around. Some folks have also gotten creative in installing the doors.
I've known people who've built tunnels with pet doors at both ends to
minimize drafts.
If you have problems with neighbor cats coming in,
you can find cat doors that work electronically, opening only for those
cats wearing a collar with a special battery-operated transmitter -- yours.
Stray cats aren't the only animal who can learn to use your cat's door,
of course: Raccoons and opossums can too, and so can skunks. The other
problem with cat doors is the things your cat can bring through them --
all manner of prey, from small mice to large, angry birds.
The convenience is probably worth it, though. You have
a couple of options in installing cat doors. While most people put them
in a door, they can also be installed in a wall, and most manufacturers
include directions for both. If you have a sliding-glass door, you can
buy panels with a pet door built in that fits on the end of the slider.
After you install your cat door, just leave it be for
a week or so until your cat takes its presence for granted. (Always remember
that cats aren't keen on change.)
To teach your cat to use the door, tape the flap up
securely for a few days so that he comes to appreciate the fact that he
can conveniently come and go on his own schedule through this magic portal.
(And I do mean securely. If your cat gets clobbered by the flap, it takes
a long time to coax him near it again.)
Then put the flap down and put a little butter or margarine
on the bottom edge of the flap and encourage him with tasty treats and
praise from the other side. You can also drag toys on a string through,
encouraging him to chase them.
Repeat in very short intervals over the course of several
days and your cat will get the hang of it, sure enough. If you have another
cat who already knows how to use the cat door, you usually don't need
to do anything. Your new cat or kitten will learn from the other cat (or
even from your dog, if the pet door is shared).
Once your cat learns, your days of servitude are past.
Except for feeding your cat, grooming your cat, petting your cat ...
PETS ON THE WEB
The Westminster Kennel Club dog show is just a dog
show the way the Kentucky Derby is just a horse race. Westminster is the
only event of its kind with widespread name recognition. Wining there is
about as good as it gets for the owners and handlers of the nation's top
show dogs -- even despite the most dreadful setup imaginable. If there's
a worse place for a dog show than midtown Manhattan in February, it's hard
to imagine. The show is Feb. 14 and 15 in Madison Square Garden, but you
can get an early preview on the WKC's Web site (www.westminsterkennelclub.org).
THE SCOOP
Don't play tug-of-war with your dog,
especially not if you have one of the more protective breeds or mixes. What
seems like an innocent game could be a setup for tragedy, because this is
one game that can teach your dog to be dominant. Here's how: You play with
your dog, pulling against him in a battle of dominance, however playful
in appearance. You get bored or the phone rings, and you drop your end.
You think: Game's over. Your dog thinks: I win. It's exactly the opposite
message your dog should get, and it may lead to other dominance challenges.
A better game is fetch, which gives your dog a good workout and reinforces
your role as leader.
QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK
Q: The time is right to add a sheltie
to our family. We are trying to be careful with our purchase. At first we
went to a pet store that had what I fear are puppy-mill pets. We've also
been searching the newspaper classified ads since November with no luck.
I've also tried searching the Internet.
There is one breeder who seems responsible that I was
told is a "backyard breeder." What's wrong with that? I was
also given the names of some breeders expecting pups. No one had any available
now.
It's difficult to know what to do and whom to believe.
What's a person to do? -- E.D., via e-mail
A: A well-bred, well-socialized Shetland sheepdog is
a wonderful dog. I've shared my life with a few, including the only sheltie
I have now -- Andy, who is coming up on his 14th birthday, still healthy,
smart and loving.
I've had shelties for more than 20 years, and I've
volunteered fostering and placing unwanted shelties for a couple of those.
The time I spent doing rescue work nearly turned me off the breed entirely.
There are a ton of dreadful shelties out there, poorly bred to the point
of being crazy, and sick besides. I'm not just picking on shelties, by
the way. The same situation holds for any popular breed: goldens, Labs,
poodles, Rottweilers and so on. Both casual breeders and puppy mills do
their part when it comes to ruining a breed.
The problem with casual "backyard breeders"
is that they are usually cheerfully ignorant of the damage they do. They
aren't aware of congenital defects (such as hip and eye deformities),
so they don't screen for these problems. They aren't aware of the value
of careful socialization, so any socialization the pups get is accidental.
The puppies are often weaned and placed too early, as well.
As for puppy mills, even if you put aside the significant
potential for health and temperament problems with mass-produced puppies,
you perpetuate a well-documented system of cruelty when you buy one of
these dogs.
Finding a reputable breeder and buying directly from
that person is the best way to get a purebred puppy. Reputable breeders
plan their matches to improve the breed, screen for health problems and
socialize their puppies.
Such breeders can indeed be hard to find. To get the
contact for the national breed club, contact the American Kennel Club
at either its Web site (www.akc.org),
or by phone (919-233-9767). (At the Web site, click on "Buying a
Puppy.") Someone there will be able to share with you the names of
club members in your area. From there, it's a matter of networking to
find a breeder who's planning a litter and to get on the waiting list
for one of those puppies.
The decisions you make now will affect your family
for years. Take your time!
The best explanation of how to find a good breeder
is in the book "Your Purebred Puppy: A Buyer's Guide" by Michele
Lowell. (Henry Holt, $14). I also wrote on this topic extensively in my
book "Dogs For Dummies" (IDG Books Worldwide, $19.99). I strongly
encourage you to find one (or both) of these in your local library so
you'll be armed with the information you need.
Q: Charlotte, my scarlet macaw, is
crazy for sunflower seeds. I feed her a pellet food sold by our veterinarian,
plus lots of fruits and veggies. But she'd kill for sunflower seeds! I've
read that they have an addictive substance. Is that true? It isn't hard
to believe, knowing how nuts my bird is for them. -- G.K. via e-mail
A: The rumor that sunflower seeds are addictive has
been floating around forever. I guess the answer depends on how you define
"addictive." If you mean is there a substance in the seeds that
alters the body's chemistry (like nicotine or morphine), then the answer
is no. There's just no evidence that sunflower seeds can exert that kind
of hold on a bird.
But if you mean addiction in the more casual sense
-- like my "addiction" to chocolate -- then you're probably
on to something. Many birds find sunflower seeds to be the yummiest of
treats, but not all do. My Senegal parrot, Patrick, isn't at all interested
in sunflower seeds -- but you'd better get out of his way when almonds
or safflower seeds are available!
Seeds are fine as a treat, by the way, but should never
be the sole diet for a parrot. You've got the right idea: a base diet
of high-quality commercial food complemented by a wide array of fruits,
vegetables, and healthy "people food" such as pasta, breads,
cooked eggs and so on.
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